AROUND THIS TIME OF YEAR, SUMPTUOUS BEANS, BRAISED VEGETABLES, LAYERED DISHES, AND PRESERVES FROM THE FARM’S ABUNDANCE SLOWLY RISE IN MY MEAL ROTATION. My body yearns for something more to weather summer’s transition and soothe the ongoing heartache caused by society’s volatility towards Black people. Although unwinding feels at odds with our collective fight towards liberation, allowing myself to truly rest has become important to me. More often than not, I reach for autumnal foods that hold me, deeply restore me, and invite me to let my guard down.

Bmore chicken and slippery dumplings is a dish that guides me through these literal and figurative seasonal shifts—and I wouldn’t be the first. For many Baltimoreans with Southern roots, it’s a dish that has a legacy of being able to stretch chicken across multiple meals during hard times. In other words, it’s a dish that fortifies you with whatever resources you have on hand. Although decadent versions of the dish exist, chicken and slippery dumplings at its core is a working-class dish. A meal that, arguably, has been preserved largely thanks to Black women cooks.

The ingredients for this recipe stay simple, but the process requires a little bit of work before you can enjoy its warm embrace. In some variations, the chicken is simply boiled, which I think is fine, but not as flavorful. Growing up, my mom would either braise the chicken, use leftover chicken, or prepare the meat entirely separate from the dumplings (e.g. fried chicken) and have them as a side dish. No matter the method, my favorite step has always been stretching out the dough with my favorite rolling pin. 

Unlike drop dumplings, which have a biscuit foundation, this version comes together through a method closer to pie dough. Some even describe chicken and slippery dumplings as a deconstructed chicken pot pie. I typically roll out the dough to a quarter-inch thickness, then cut it into diamond shapes. After crafting the dumplings, I love waiting for the cauldron of chicken broth to boil so I can carefully drop them in. After a few minutes, they rise to the surface plump, tender, and slightly bigger now than when they first went in. 

The recipe’s final step involves adding frozen peas and carrots. As I kid, that moment signaled we’d be eating soon. To this day, I feel a wave of excitement when I spoon my favorite pieces of chicken, dumplings, broth, and veggies into my bowl. Oftentimes, that means burning my tongue with the first taste, because I’m impatient. This dish brings up the feelings of spotting someone I love, rushing in for a hug, and remembering how much I cherish the warmth of being held by someone familiar. I carry deep gratitude to my mom and those before her for passing dishes like this down to me. As autumn welcomes darker times ahead, I return to meals like this one for renewal, so that I can rise stronger.  

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CHICKEN AND SLIPPERY DUMPLINGS

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

For the chicken:

• 1 whole 4-pound chicken, broken down into parts
• 1 teaspoon oregano
• 1 teaspoon thyme
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• ½ teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 3 teaspoons salt, divided
• 1 medium onion, diced

For the dumplings and broth:

• 2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour, plus more for dusting
• ¼ cup vegetable shortening or unsalted butter
• ½ cup cold water (see note)
• 2 quarts vegetable broth
• 6 ounces frozen crinkle-cut carrots (from a 12-ounce package)
• 6 ounces frozen peas (from a 12-ounce package)
• ½ bunch fresh parsley, finely minced

Tools:

• Chef’s knife and cutting board
• Large Dutch oven
• Slotted spoon
• Rolling pin

METHOD:

Prepare the Chicken

1. In a large bowl, combine the chicken pieces with oregano, thyme, garlic powder, onion powder, Old Bay seasoning, smoked paprika, and 2 teaspoons of the salt. Toss to coat evenly. Let marinate for 30 minutes, or overnight if preparing in advance.
2. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add a drizzle of olive oil. Brown the chicken parts in batches. You’re aiming for a medium golden color, which adds flavor to the pan for the onions and broth.
   
   • Thighs and legs: 8 to 10 minutes, turning once
   • Wings and breasts: 5 to 8 minutes
   • If using the back and tail: 8 to 10 minutes
3. Transfer each browned piece to a bowl to make room for the next batch.
4. Once all chicken parts are browned, add the diced onion to the same pot. Cook over medium heat until just translucent, about 8 to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and set the pot aside.

Make the Dumplings

1. In a medium bowl, combine the flour and a teaspoon of salt.
2. Add the butter or shortening and cut it into the flour using a fork or your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
3. Slowly add the cold water, starting with ¼ cup and adding 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough comes together into a soft, round ball. (The amount of water may vary depending on humidity.)
4. Flatten the dough into a disc and wrap it in plastic wrap or parchment paper. Chill in the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes.
5. Once chilled, lightly flour a clean surface and roll out the dough into a rectangle about ¼ inch thick.
6. Dust a chef’s knife with flour and cut the dough into diamond shapes:
   
   • Cut 4 to 5 strips on the bias in one direction
   • Then cut 6 to 7 strips on the bias in the opposite direction
   • Each diamond should be roughly 1½ × 2 inches

Assemble the Soup

1. Return the chicken pieces and their juices to the pot with the onions. Add the vegetable broth and bring to a boil.
2. Drop the dumpling diamonds into the boiling broth. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes, until they puff up and float to the surface.
3. Reduce the heat to a steady simmer. Add the frozen peas and carrots and cook for another 3 to 5 minutes, until heated through.
4. Taste and adjust seasoning to taste.
5. Ladle into bowls and garnish with minced parsley before serving.

‍Cold water tip: To ensure the water is cold enough for the dough, either place a cup in the freezer at the beginning of cooking or add ice cubes to a cup of water and measure from that.